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Words by Kelby Fischer
Photos by Dan Waters
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Regardless of which direction one approaches the town of Leavenworth, the journey there is all about progression. From the West, drivers slowly climb from the lush coastal valleys surrounding the Snohomish River up and through the increasingly alpine landscape of Stevens Pass and the North Cascade Range. The approach from the East is starker yet; the barrow pits along the road transform from an alkaline wasteland of bunch grass and rattlesnakes into a spillway for glacial runoff in just a matter of minutes. Once in Leavenworth, the eyes are greeted by a truly Bavarian scene. Rugged mountains complete with alpine waterfalls provide a fitting backdrop for the cottage-style architecture that has been incorporated into the exterior of seemingly every building in town. German folk music emanates from a park on main street where an art festival is underway and tourists ebb and flow from the candy shops and restaurants, giving a primordial slime-like life to this tourist town.
OUT OF THE BAG
While the theme park attractions offer plenty for the less adventurous who travel here, Leavenworth doubles as a little known Cascadian Shangri-La for mountain bikers and it serves as the perfect hub for some of Washington’s best trail riding.
ROOTS
Like many towns of the Pacific Northwest, Leavenworth has its roots in the mining and timber industries and this accounts for its its rise from trading outpost to industrial hub. When the Great Northern Railway discontinued service to Leavenworth in the late fifties, the small town on the east side of the Cascades faced extinction. As a last ditch effort to replace the economic stimulus that the now closed sawmill and mines had once provided, the town leaders took aim at the last resource they could, tourism. In only a few short years, the town underwent a drastic renovation resulting in the Bavarian incarnation seen today.
OPTIONS
While modern Leavenworth continues to sustain itself with tourist friendly resorts, shops and festivals, its geography attracts visitors for a myriad of adventure-based pursuits as well. Brutal class 5 whitewater only minutes from town, some of Washington’s best skiing just up the road at Steven’s Pass and many of the best epic rides in the state make Leavenworth an outdoor recreationalist’s dream. Even better, most of these spots are a short thirty minutes or less from town..
VARIETY, THE SPICE OF LIFE
Perhaps the best part about the riding around Leavenworth is the fact that it’s as varied as the terrain it takes place on. The Sage Hills area just outside of Wenatchee offers moderate to strenuous single track XC riding in a near desert environment. Those who aren’t afraid of a little bit of climbing can experience the rare treat of ascending out of the alkali flats all the way up into loamy steppe forest on their climb to the top.
The Xanadu area just ten minutes from downtown provides an equally scenic, though vastly different riding experience. After an easy service road climb, Xanadu quickly descends through a recent burn, and the new trail is an enduro rider’s wet dream — techy rock sections, steep, blown out turns with exposure and a Mario Land bermfest at the bottom for good measure. For those looking to take it to the next level, the neighboring ridge offers Tres Hombres, a bona fide freeride trail with more technical rocks, jumps and drops than you can shake a stick at.
GOINGS ON
If you’re looking for a more organized way to check out the riding in Leavenworth, look no further than the Bavarian Bike and Brew Festival, held every summer. Boasting a USA Cycling sanctioned XC race and a regional brew festival, the event draws several hundred riders from all over the Northwest. As an added bonus, the race takes place on a small organic farm just a short drive from town. The brew fest goes down on the owner’s front lawn on Saturday night with a live band and beer garden that serves up brews from many regional and national microbreweries.
SHOPS
Maps, beta and all of your riding needs can be taken care of at Das Rad Haus, Leavenworth’s premier bike shop. The friendly and knowledgeable staff can give you up to date information on local trails, keep your ride rolling smoothly or even hook you up with a new Trek rental bike.
EAT & STAY
Hit up the Munchen Haus Bavarian Grill and Beer Garden in downtown Leavenworth for authentic Bavarian fare. Offering a variety of traditional German sausages, all the ice cold Hofbrau you can drink and the largest mustard bar in the area, the Munchen Haus makes for a great post ride destination.
For stay, the Icicle Village Resort, conveniently located right downtown, is a full service destination resort offering several accommodation possibilities from motel rooms to multi-room condos, all of which are first class. Aside from being within walking distance to downtown, the Icicle Village’s inclusive hot breakfast and outdoor pool/spa make it the perfect place to stay.
FINAL TAKE
With some of the most varied and fun riding in Washington, Leavenworth is one of the best kept mountain biking secrets around. Well suited as a long weekend destination or a quick day trip, there’s something for every type of rider to enjoy and the scenery is world class. For those with friends or family that don’t ride, the town’s many other attractions keep it fun for everybody. So if you’re in the Northwest and are looking for something a little different and off the beaten path, check out Leavenworth. It won’t disappoint!
