Taxonomy upgrade extras
Words by Ben Donatelle
Photos by John Parker
When I first moved to Bozeman about eight years ago I spent a few nights, in typical fashion, on my friend Remi’s couch. That first night, as I was settling in and feeling pretty good about moving my life halfway across the country, he told me one of the best things about Bozeman: “You can get from one end of town to the other faster on a bike than you can in a car.” A few hours and a case of PBR later, we decided it would be a good idea to test his theory and race from one end of town to the other on our bikes. I vaguely remember weaving through the streets of Bozeman, surveying what was to be my new home, and thinking that this was quite the contrast from the sprawling Midwestern mega-suburb I just abandoned. Not that I advocate biking while intoxicated by any means, but that night we proved—at least in our own minds—that Bozeman was indeed a great town for biking.
In the time since that first intoxicated summer evening in my new home, a lot of things have changed. Bozeman’s edges have swelled a little further into the surrounding countryside as local ranchers cash in their cattle for condo developments. Every year the big box stores and modern day convenience of life on the I-90 throughway edge closer and closer into our sleepy mountain town. The intersections are busier, and the small streets have become clogged with a few more Escalades and Audis. And while a few dually pickups and rusty Subaru wagons still chug down the streets, I can’t drink an entire case of PBR with quite the grace I used to. However, the spirit of independence that the bicycle represents has not left Bozeman, and the fact we proved that first night remains: you can still get from one end of town to the other faster on a bike than you can in a car.
The Town
Bozeman is a town in the midst of a teen-aged growth spurt. Its outer edges are gangly and uncoordinated, with random developments popping up in strange new places, and every day some new graffiti emblazons the alleyways like a cheap lower back tattoo. Most of Bozeman’s old charm continues to retreat, its true identity hidden somewhere between a hip new urbanism and its rural, pastoral roots. During the day, Bozeman’s downtown bustles with activity. Locals and tourists permeate the restaurants, art galleries, antique stores, and diverse variety of local merchants lining Main Street. At night, only those with the most Motley Crew-worthy ambitions can traverse the entire string of local watering holes, each catering to a crowd as diverse as the locals themselves. And there’s no need to call a cab when you’ve got a wobbly bike ride home to look forward to at the end of the night.
While Bozeman continues to grow, city planners do their best to shape the future in a meaningful way for all walks of life, including bicycles. Many of the new neighborhoods are required to include bicycle/pedestrian routes and greenways in their development, while a commuter path between Bozeman and neighboring Belgrade is currently being discussed. The evidence of rapid growth is ironically most evident while traveling through Bozeman by bicycle. In a few spots around town, the bicycle routes completely disappear only to reappear several blocks down the road.
Despite these challenges, through the efforts of the Gallatin Valley Land Trust and the Bozeman Area Bicycle Advisory Board (BABAB)—a panel of bicycle advocates and enthusiasts dedicated to helping the city enhance its bicycle friendly ways—the connectivity and thoroughness of the bike routes and trail networks continue to improve. The new, LEED-certified Public Library anchors a tremendous greenway leading from downtown into Lindley Park and up Pete’s Hill, connecting Main Street with the mountains on the south side of town through a trail system that continues to get better the more it is explored. From the top of Pete’s Hill on the edge of town, a quick five mile spin leads to trails in Bear Canyon, Sourdough (or Bozeman) Creek, and Leverich Canyon. To the north, a bike route follows Wallace Ave to the base of Story Hills, a local hotspot for early season mountain bike laps.
The climate of mountainous Montana poses an interesting challenge to those with a proclivity toward two-wheeled pursuits. In a land where winter can last for nine months of the year (historically, snow has fallen on all but about three days of the year in Bozeman), those who are dedicated to bicycling sometimes appear as if they need to be committed. But really, commuting by bicycle in sub-zero temperatures while snow is blowing horizontally and freezing your eyeballs can be fun. Don’t knock it till you try a Tuesday night mountain bike ride on a snowmobile trail, your breath providing a backlit halo for all the snowflakes as they glisten in the light of your headlamp.
The Terrain
Bozeman is surrounded on three sides by the 1.8 million acre Gallatin National Forest. The Gallatin Valley itself spills out to the west of town in a rolling, lapping countryside dotted with ranches, rural neighborhoods, and the wide open range that Montana is famous for. The road biking is endless in Montana, and Bozeman can be your hub for some great rides. Whether you’re looking for a quick loop around town or a weeklong tour, the country roads around Bozeman offer road cyclists hundreds of miles of scenic opportunities.
One classic fundraising ride called “Blazing Saddles” occurs annually in June and benefits the Payden Memorial Foundation, which helps improve the lives of kids suffering from cancer. The route travels west from Livingston, over Rocky Pass and Jackson Creek to Bozeman, then north along US Highway 86 through Bridger Canyon, around through the town of Wilsall, then back south through the Shields Valley to Livingston. This fundraiser has become so popular within the cycling community that they have to limit entries to the first 175 people.
Hyalite Canyon is another famed destination for both road and mountain biking alike. The 12-mile climb to Hyalite Reservoir rambles gently up a paved and well-maintained road. The views of Mount Blackmore and Hyalite Peak from the reservoir are classic, glaciated Montana, and worth every bit of effort. The views from the tops of these peaks are even better, if you have the time. The way back down the canyon can be a screaming white-knuckle descent or a mellow cruise depending on your mentality, but beware, the weekend traffic can be heavy as the canyon provides recreational opportunities for many other outdoor pursuits.
Mountain bike trails in Hyalite include everything from mellow forested double tracks like Moser Creek, to rugged technical forays like the Emerald Lake trail. Those with an adventurous spirit can find all-day, choose your own adventure epics by linking multiple trails throughout the forest. Campers will find a variety of Forest Service cabins, campgrounds, and pirated campsites within the Hyalite area, so if you’re hurting for a place to stay, look no further. Rumor has it a few hardy folks have even taken up short-term residence in the forest, mountain biking and camping for months at a time. However, the Forest Service doesn’t look too kindly upon this practice (they like to collect their camp fees), so if that’s your plan it’s best to keep it quiet.
The region south of Hyalite Peak and Emerald Lake on either side of the “Devils Backbone” trail is an area of contention among local residents. The land is a part of what is known as the Porcupine – Buffalo Horn Wilderness Study Area. The trails within the Wilderness Study area are currently off limits to bicycles in an attempt to retain the region’s “wilderness character.” The ironic fact that motorcycle use has been grandfathered into the area is only the beginning of the controversy and many opinions have been catapulted back and forth over this issue. If you have a particularly strong one, please be a responsible forest user and write a good old-fashioned letter to the National Forest Service. They always love to hear from their fans.
Bozeman’s blossoming mountain biking community is still in the process of finding its identity. The pervasive Montana mentality of, “Leave me alone, I’ll do what I want, this land is my land…” is slowly fading into a more positive, cooperative atmosphere. Discussion about the presence of mountain bikes in the numerous wilderness areas around Bozeman has led to many a heated debate, and while the argument for and against continues dancing throughout the community, great steps are being made to improve the quality of mountain bike trails and access throughout the region.
Leverich Canyon is a prime example of the new cooperative effort hopefully taking precedence in the region. Leverich has long been a favorite trail among the locals. It’s always one of the first trails to dry out after the long Montana winter because of its lower elevation. It’s challenging climbs and steep descents are great benchmarks to test your ability, and it’s close enough to town that you can ride from your house. As Bozeman continues to grow, and the surrounding trails inevitably become more loved, the increased use takes a toll. Leverich was beginning to show the signs of wear and erosion caused by too many people using a poorly constructed trail. The big rut at the first creek crossing, although a great challenge to the most experienced of mountain bikers, kept growing every year. It was only a matter of time before the missing persons reports started coming in…
But last year, something magical happened. With efforts from the mountain bike community, the International Mountain Bike Association (IMBA) and many other trail user groups, the Leverich Canyon Trail was given a facelift and a new lease on life. The new trail was diverted around the creek and improved by eliminating the steep straight uphill climb in favor of a few long switchbacks. The best part for bikers is a new mountain bike specific downhill trail, complete with banked corners, a few jumps, and some sections where you can really open it up. The result is a trail that is better for the landscape, more fun for mountain bikes, and eliminates many of the user conflicts of the old trail by diverting downhill mountain bike traffic to its own designated route.
The mentality and spirit of cooperation instigated by the Leverich Trail project has begun to spread to other areas of the forest. Recently a forum was held at Montana State University, which brought together wilderness advocates, mountain bikers, trail builders, government officials, and business owners. The goal was to discuss mountain biking and other recreation in our area, and how best to facilitate the needs of all interested parties. Some steps were made toward better communication between all, and some great ideas were tossed around, including one to build a trail through the foothills connecting Bear Canyon on one end of the valley to Hyalite Canyon on the other.
While the debate continues in courtrooms and on bar stools, some people just choose to remain quiet and ride where they can, when they can. The Bridger Mountains house some great rides around town from the quick after work out-and-backs like Sypes Canyon and Truman Gulch, to all day marathon epics like the Bridger Ridge or Bangtail Divide (Ed note: check out our trail anti-review of the Bangtail Divide in issue #1). Whatever your mountain biking tastes are—from smooth rolling single track to technical marathon bushwhacking sagas—the lands surrounding Bozeman have something to offer everyone.
The Community
One thing that makes bicycling around Bozeman so enjoyable is the people. On a sunny day, the streets and trails are packed with people on bikes. A friendly wave and ring of the bell usually elicits the same response, just watch out for the obligatory black lab following about ten feet behind. Search around long enough and you’ll probably find a welcoming game of bike polo, or catch a critical mass swarming by. For the single speed, fixie fanatics, Alley cat races happen about once a week in the summer; you too could win yourself a thirst-quenching pitcher of PBR! The Gallatin Valley Bike Club puts on weekly road races if shaved legs and spandex is your thing, and the Grizzly Ridge Riders offer mountain bike adventures on a regular basis.
When you’re in the market for a new bike, need some repairs on your trusty old rig, or just need some friendly advice on places to ride, the guys at Summit Bike and Ski are always happy to help. If you want to get more hands-on and learn how to fix your own bike or build up your own townie cruiser, the Bozeman Bike Kitchen is a community bike shop and recycling center always willing to trade volunteer hours for parts. And if you’re still not where to start with all the trails available so close to town, local company Beartooth Publishing produces great maps of the area for bikers and hikers, complete with trail descriptions and elevation profiles. They’re available at most outdoor shops around town.
While spinning down life’s happy highway (or sweet singletrack), if you happen to find yourself in Bozeman, do yourself a favor, stop and smell the proverbial flowers. Pedal up into the hills and explore some of the last great wild lands left in the country, or find a couch to crash on and go spin around Main Street with a beer in hand. Breathe in that clean mountain air… smells kinda like tri-flo huh? The camaraderie and spirit of adventure that bicycles bring is evident all around. Despite its quirks, road construction, and the missing links to a few bike routes, Bozeman is really a friendly place to ride a bike. The slow pace of mountain living surely lends itself to that. And while some people who move here still can’t help being in a hurry, no matter what, you gotta have a bike in Bozeman.
Bozeman Resources:
Gallatin National Forest – Bozeman Ranger District
3710 Fallon St, Ste C
Bozeman MT 59718
406.522.2520
Gallatin Valley Bicycle Club
www.gallatinvalleybicycleclub.org
Gallatin Valley Land Trust
www.gvlt.org
Summit Bike and Ski Shop
26 S. Grand Ave
Bozeman
406.5871064
Bozeman Bike Kitchen
Garage at 426 E. Aspen St.
www.bozemanbikekitchen.org
Montana Mountain Bike Alliance
